Wonderland: The ABC of this year’s travels

Cross-posted from DaivaRepeckaite.com - you can comment there.

I found a fun questionnaire on this blog and decided to use it to ‘close’ 2011 on Wonderland. This year was exceptionally full of travelling, for which I feel grateful. I went somewhere almost every month. I visited 3 continents, 12 countries (6 of them – for the first time) and 21 cities. True, I didn’t blog on Wonderland much, as there were so many things to do and so much to share on my Lithuanian blog. The loss of the possibility to interact with my readers on Cafe Babel blogs was also very discouraging, and this is why I started cross-posting. Anyway, let’s hope the next year will be equally interesting and less busy.

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Translating between regular language and Economics

When I posted these on my Facebook, Nabeelah suggested that I write something for 'Tower of Babel'. The column is welcome to repost this. You can comment the entry on DaivaRepeckaite.com

Have you ever noticed that the best compliment students give their professors is something along these lines: “S/he is capable of explaining complicated things in such a simple manner”? Teaching and research, as well as the media, is often about translation: from specific to abstract, from sound/view to words, from one culture to another. And some scientists work very hard to translate everyday language to the language they share with their colleagues.

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Witnessing a cloaca of immaturity in Prague

Cross-posted with Daiva.Repeckaite.com - feel free to comment the post there.

Prague is probably by far the most known and popular city in Central and Eastern Europe, with hordes of tourists and large numbers of exchange and full degree students. Some people know Prague as a city of sophisticated culture, the birthplace of Franz Kafka. Others associate it with nightlife and youth. It appears that Prague fell victim of its own success. The city is continuously being reshaped and damaged by the flows of tourism, and locals are losing a sense that the city belongs to them.

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Tourist joys and locals' struggles in Malaga

Cross-posted from DaivaRepeckaite.com - feel free to comment the post there!

Malaga, in South Spain, on the Mediterranean cost, turns out to be a particularly attractive place to settle for all kinds of people, especially Germans looking for a nice place to retire. But, according to my friend there, people from all over Spain say they would choose it as a place to live. It was the first city I visited in Spain, and I think I know now why Spain appeals to so many people in my life. Malaga has it all: the sea and mountains, cultural life and comfortable, walkable city spaces.

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Are opinions a security threat?

The right to free expression, when it risks harming others' political or economic interests, is a hotly debated issue in Israel right now. In a strange coincidence, the so-called 'air flotilla' (activists flying into Israel with an explicit intention to visit the occupied territories in order to show the world how tourists are sorted according to their views) and a controversial anti-boycott law have become a part of a very emotional debate. While I'm far away, separated by already a year of not living in Israel and not even closely following the news from there, this situation affected me in a strange way.

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Let It Be Night 2011

Let It Be Night is an annual festival in Vilnius (see post two years ago). It brings together professional and amateur artists to perform at night. Most of the events are free of charge, and many happen outside. The idea is to make Vilnius more of a night city, which it is not. The festival takes place in June, just before academic year fully finishes. This year more than 100 events were promised, with theatres joining in to an unprecedented extent. The whole programme sounded very promising, and, despite the short rain, many people took the advantage to spend the night in the city centre. The Lithuanian media noticed both the success of some events, drawing large numbers of people, and much less success to provide adequate security.

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First bubbles of this year

Also posted on DaivaRepeckaite.com

As soon as it became warm enough, Laimikis.lt relaunched its initiative called "Bubble the City" in English (in rather unsuccessful search for an adequate term for the creative Lithuanian "Burbuliatorius"). As last year, it takes place in Lithuanian cities and towns, as well as the most popular migrant destinations. The idea is to encourage people to spend time outdoors and do something together in a non-commercial setting, using one of the green public spaces. I have noticed that Vilnius, which, although blessed with open spaces, has rather unstable climate. It drastically lacks public toilets, and many urban spaces that people like become 'overplanned' due to dubious government initiatives, such as replacing old trees, which used to provide comfortable shade, with new, specially designed trees. Being in central Vilnius in cold weather is no fun at all, to put it mildly. Like in many cities, you must buy something to enjoy a comfortable place to sit. Compared to Tokyo, Vilnius at least has benches.

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Testing

Are Babel Blogs back to life?

Blogging on http://www.daivarepeckaite.com/category/english/ meanwhile

Inequality in us

First of all, to start with something positive, happy International Women's Day, I wish you lots of courage, freedom and solidarity, and a better, more equal world for all of us. Unfortunately, with a gender pay gap at 15% and only 3% women in biggest enterprises, with women performing 3 times more unpaid labour at home than men here in Lithuania, real equality still looks like a distant lighthouse in a foggy sea, but it is also the day to appreciate the achievements of today. We have many more choices, and some struggles present in the West are somewhat solved over here. Most women work full-time rather than part-time, and they are not expected to be housewives. Lithuanian women are the most educated in the EU. Mothers enjoy a long parental leave with substantial compensation. Homosexual women are treated with more respect and recognition than before, although partnerships are not legalised and discrimination is not receding.

To celebrate this day, I joined an event organised by an anarcha-feminist association "Feminist Front". We watched some videos and had a discussion about the objectification of women's bodies in advertising and gender stereotypes in general. The event took place at the premises of the Lithuanian Gay League. As I went into a courtyard shared by several unnumbered houses, I got completely lost. Slipping on thick ice, I walked around several times, not able to find the right house. This is for a good reason, I thought. No signs, nothing indicated where to find the Gay League.

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Lithuania's Independence Day tainted by nationalist demonstration in Kaunas

Let us start with something positive on this special day. I would like to wish a happy Independence Day to all citizens, inhabitants and friends of Lithuania. May we all grow together and have an opportunity to see this country become increasingly a better, more equal and more welcoming place for all. Although most Lithuanians do not even know how to celebrate Independence Days (and we have two), although most people probably ended up shopping or simply sleeping longer, it is also a day for popular concerts, passionate speeches and plentiful Facebook greetings. Unfortunately, for many in Kaunas it once again reminded about political tensions that we are experiencing.

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Street signs controversy - scary?

Are multiple languages in public space an issue? Not in many countries. But in Lithuania there is an ongoing battle over some buses and street signs, which, in addition to Lithuanian, give translations in Polish. A law in Lithuania obliges all public signs (streets, institutions, etc.) to be in Lithuanian. The mainstream interpretation is that this implies they have to be in Lithuanian only.

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Repeating shapes and patterns in Paris

I know that Paris is the city that so many people have either visited or seen in films, so if I simply describe what I saw there, I doubt if those of you who read this blog on Google Reader or similar will click on the link. However, there are many angles to look at Paris, and, interestingly enough, its not-so-touristic objects are much prettier and more interesting than those we know of. One interesting thing I noticed was that Paris gives you an impression of being eclectic and artsy, while in fact it is built and kept up in precise order and follows a set of rules. We have already talked about overplanned urban spaces, remember? I guess the key to the success that Paris demonstrates in avoiding something like this is the fact that it is so old, and its shapes have developed and been tested over time.

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2010 in... songs

Dear friends, readers, opponents, etc - whoever read this blog. I wish you a great and inspirational New Year! I hope we will be in touch and continue to exchange ideas. Meanwhile, I prepared a summary of the things I blogged, tweeted, facebooked and thought about. There's no way to embed youtube on Wonderland, so please follow the link.

Sex and violence in the city - dead serious and leading to new initiative

A fellow blogger from Israel, Dimi Reider, recently publicised a shocking story, presumably from Tel Aviv, about a shocking case of humiliation, rape and incitement to violence. The victim is a young, recently-arrived Czech student in Israel. The suspect is a local who recently took courses at a 'pick-up school'. He boasts on the forum of raping the student so that there are no signs of violence on her body (in case she decided to turn to the police). The steps he has learned at the 'school' are aggressive pick-up strategy, crushing the victim's self-confidence, exploiting the local-foreigner differences, and using the humiliating approximation while the victim is still in shock. I join fellow bloggers and Israeli activists who demand not only that the suspect goes to court, but would also add that such a school must be closed.

While this particular case may be extreme, the pattern is not so uncommon, so I hurry to provide some tips for young women who are planning to or have recently arrived in Israel.

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Frozen Vilnius

December (Lt. 'gruodis') is named after harsh, dry frost ('gruodas'). After several global-warming type of winters, it's already the second which is exceptionally cold. It is -13 at the moment, and if it goes down even more, it seems that eyelids will freeze together after every blink. Like any stronger weather-related phenomenon, snow exposes the mismanagement of Vilnius' streets. Sloping, narrow streets of the old town, when frozen, are a particular torture for old people. But even young ones get injured. It's too dangerous to keep your hands in your pockets, but too cold to keep them outside.

The country is both blessed and cursed with cold winters. Whenever the pavement is safe enough to look up, Vilnius really looks like a fairytale.

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Christmas without copyright

I wanted to write a blog post about the classical Christmas songs that have been 'translated' and appropriated by Lithuanian singers in the 90s. But I couldn't find some of them on youtube. Please send them along if you have them. One is certainly here: the original, the copy. Also this one: the original, the copy.

Well, at least no copyright legislation will ever forbid translating 'Silent Night'.

A step into the darkness

Though the night is cold and dark.
In our soul, there lies a spark.
Each of us, is one small light.
All together, we shine bright.

(Classical Hanukkah song)

Monuments are better neighbours than people - this idea can easily come to mind when observing how the number of 'functioning' lights multiplies in the chanukiah (special set of nine candles) placed in the Vincas Kudirka square near the Government building. The place, previously known as the Municipality square, has been restructured and a rather controversial monument to the famous patriotic writer, the author of the Lithuanian anthem, was built. These days forgotten debates about his place in Lithuanian history have been reignited, on no other occasion than to remind the population of his 'folkish' anti-semitism (see commentaries by Donskis, Vasiliauskaitė; defense of Kudirka by Zaborskaitė). Kudirka is known for publishing, in the early stage of his career, collections of classical anti-semitic beliefs. Now his monument, which reminds some critics of young Lenin, is a silent, non-pretentious neighbour to the only public menorah in central Vilnius. Seems like a no-drama situation, even though I was paranoid enough to wonder whether the menorah will face a snowball attack from local basketball fans after Tel Aviv Maccabi won against Kaunas Žalgiris in the Euroleague (one of the main basketball championships in the region) on the second day of Hanukkah (I also wonder how many times the Tel Aviv team toasted to the Maccabees that night). But even if the locals had seen a connection, it is Kaunas' team, not Vilnius, that lost.

Unfortunately, bad news arrived from the place I lived in just so recently (and what the connection with Hanukkah is, I will explain below). On Tuesday 'dozens' of municipal rabbis in Israel, paid from taxpayers' money, signed a ruling forbidding the renting of apartments to Gentiles (non-Jews) and particularly Arabs (from as much as I know the context, the ruling is something like a fatwa by Ayatollah Khomeini against Salman Rushdie - people will follow if they highly respect this authority, but there is no universal religious validity). Although the ruling was condemned by many human rights groups and a couple of members of the Knesset, and even the Prime Minister, I haven't heard that any of these rabbis would be fired. Here is a translation of an editorial from Yediot Achronot - there's not much to add. It's just that I can't help but react sensitively to such processes happening unhindered in a place I left so recently. I remember my former landlord, partly observant, who was worried about the multiple pressures resulting from renting apartments for guest-workers (there are plenty, and they already find it hard to find an affordable place). Obviously, I don't doubt his or most of other landlords' sanity. But the ruling will legitimise the racism of those landlords who do want to discriminate (I hope that the civil government will take action to punish them disregarding the local-level religious ruling).

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Public transport in Vilnius: survival game

One day as I was on the way to my office with my flatmate, a bus, navigating through a traffic jam, suddenly hit the brakes, having most people grab anything they could hold onto. One passenger (approx. in her 60s) did not do it in time. She flew towards the front of the bus, lost her balance and hit the glass. Someone helped her to stand up and sit on a seat. She was sitting there, holding her head, moaning, and people were watching what will happen next.

This is something I dislike most about the local culture. The "see what happens" attitude does not allow more effective handling of minor crimes that happen on public transport. People get pickpocketed, sometimes when it's crowded, but often because everyone is afraid to say something (you never know if the pickpocket has a knife, so these fears are not ungrounded). Insults often get unnoticed (here are some insults that an American student experienced in Vilnius). There have been cases of someone being stabbed to death in public transport - other passengers did not do anything while the fight was escalating.

In this case, again, the injured passenger was obviously alive, she did not lose her consciousness, so perhaps it didn't alarm other passengers too much. Me and my flatmate, after some discussion what would be the best way to call her an ambulance, went to her and I asked how she was (in Lithuanian). She responded (in Russian) that she hadn't had a blackout and was not feeling sick, so she didn't think she got a concussion, but was experiencing terrible pain. I turned to the driver and knocked on the glass separating him from the passengers. "Do you have a first aid kit?" I asked, mostly because I was stressed and worried - typically first aid kits are designed to treat wounds only. The driver made a gesture asking me to wait, and pulled over in the next stop. Then he went to the passenger area and straight to the suffering woman. "Show it to me... Oh, this is nothing." he said (there was really no wound), and then raised his voice to speak to other passengers, "You saw it themselves - I didn't stop the bus too fast. Nobody else fell down. You witnessed that, right?" "Sir, you will discuss it later, she needs help," I said, desperately. The driver repeated to me (in Russian) what he said to the passengers. "This person needs help! Can't you leave your discussions for later?" I shouted in Russian, already getting furious. Meanwhile, another passenger, who was getting off the bus, said, "You did stop the bus too fast. You don't behave with people that way!" The driver got into a discussion with her, trying to prove he was not to blame, and then.. got back to his seat.

Meanwhile the injured woman called her family and made sure they will pick her up at a bus stop. She didn't want to go to hospital. So we got off where we had to go, with an uneasy feeling. Of course, the whole story did not end as bad as it could have. I heard stories of people falling on top of each other and someone breaking their leg on a bus, and my own shoulder was dislocated when a bus stopped very suddenly in a traffic jam. I bet in countries where driving is even crazier it happens more often. But what struck me was this egoism, when the driver first hurried to gather witnesses and prove it was not his fault before even paying attention to the suffering of the passenger.

You may ask, how is it that I'm not used to nobody ever being responsible for anything?

How people meet and greet

My Lithuanian blog has become a battleground for a very serious discussion. But unless it escalates more at the international level, I will allow myself some autonomous space to keep writing about urban life and people - here, on my English blog. I have several ideas, so don't be surprised at multiple posts.

Something from yesterday really amused me, and, since posting it on FB, I had some new ideas. So, the temperature dropped to -8 degrees of Celsius, perhaps about 10 degrees lower than last week, and unusually warm November suddenly became icy winter. It caught most of us completely unprepared (clothing-wise), and, I was going out in the evening, I thought to myself, "I really miss Israel in such moments!"

A few hours later I happened to meet some people from Vilnius' small but very interesting American community, together with their local friends. I was introduced to one person I only heard of before. After the usual exchange of names, he asked me if I was from here, to which I answered. Having taken a second to study my face, he then asked, "Are you also from the Tribe?" "The Tribe?" I frowned, puzzled. Other Americans hurried to explain, but I didn't need an explanation. Earlier that evening I saw two other Americans meeting, and in the first five minutes one also asked another if she was Jewish, clinked a bottle of beer against hers, wished her a good Shabbat and left.

Wait wait, I thought I said I missed the 'avir' (weather) of Israel, not the 'avira' (social atmosphere)! But it made me think... Maybe I was too harsh on the Israelis? Maybe it's only us Europeans who are taught it's a no-no to believe that ethnic/etc belonging is key information about people? And maybe too many of us Europeans have read "The Little Prince" and learned from this adorable quote:

"Grown-ups love figures.  When you tell them that you have made a new friend, they never ask you any questions about essential matters.  They never say to you, "What does his voice sound like?  What games does he love best?  Does he collect butterflies?" Instead, they demand:  "How old is he?  How many brothers has he?  How much does he weigh?  How much money does his father make?"  Only from these figures do they think they have learned anything about him."  ~Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, The Little Prince, 1943, translated from French

Reading "The Little Prince" in Hebrew. Still :)

Special offer: fly cheap, feel worthless!

You will not believe it, but a week ago was the first time I flew Ryanair, the cheap Irish airline whose brand is known as widely as Coca Cola in Lithuania. Cheap airlines, like it or loathe it, represents a change in culture. Flying is no longer luxury, which is not because airlines are kind and benevolent, but because the growing migrant and otherwise mobile classes have created a new opportunity structure for businesses. Some say that Ryanair is planning to earn solely on secondary products and advertising, making flights themselves almost free (my outbound flight cost 5 EUR, but the card fee was twice higher). On the way back, I had a chance to experience contacts with the 'new' travelling Lithuanians, who are so often mocked at by various bloggers and writers. Not only that, I had a chance to look into something that is also a part of the routine for frequent travellers in cheap airlines - inconvenient airports and unfriendly staff. The whole thing was very interesting.

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