Lithuania

More fights over Vilnius space: nationalists are kosher?

As I wrote earlier, the municipality of Vilnius did not allow the Baltic Pride demonstration (against the discrimination and stereotyping of homosexuals), planned in May, to take place in the new premises where most protests will be pushed to, presumably because it is the territory of an ancient Jewish cemetery. However, Delfi writes that the municipality allowed the 'patriotic' march, which happens already the third time on the Independence Day, without any discussion with the Department of Cultural Heritage. One thing that may explain a part of it is the fact that it was a parliament member, Kazimieras Uoka from the Conservative-Christian Democratic faction, who asked the municipality for the permission to organise the march and assumed responsibility for it.

In 2008, LIthuanians and foreigners were in shock to see how the 'patriotic' march, at the time on Gedimino ave., turned into a neo-nazi demonstration, with anti-Russian and anti-Semitic slogans. The police filmed the participants, but was reluctant to arrest them in the beginning. The next year, in 2009, the website patriotai.lt (a discussion forum popular among the far right and some 'patriotic' moderates) asked the participants of the march for "no sympathy to the ideologies of communism and nazism" and "no hate incitement in posters, slogans and flags". The right-wing demonstration went peacefully and without incitement of hate, yet the parallel anti-nationalist demonstration "the funeral of democracy" was met with rather aggressive resistance, and quite soon patriotai.lt invited its participants to identify the participants of that demonstration. In a few days, one of the participants of the anti-nationalist demonstration was beaten up.

This year (it's the third year that I'm not in the country on the Independence Day, so I have to rely on testimonies) there was no hate incitement, yet the participants shouted (see video), "Lithuania for Lithuanians!" Mr. Uoka only found this slogan 'monotonous', while the Human Rights Monitoring Istitute expressed concern over the agitation for a mono-ethnic state. Personally, I think that the 'patriotic' march is an obvious attempt to monopolise the term 'patriot' and 'patriotism', and 'steal' the Independence Day from the non-right-wing population. Unlike many other national holidays (the crowning of King Mindaugas, the Zalgiris battle, and even the first Independence Day), this day is a celebration of the modern Lithuanian democracy and resistance to the oppressive Soviet regime, so it is also important for moderates and left-wing people. However, the increasingly radical right would prefer to see these people as not belonging neither to Lithuania nor to this day. The way to achieve it is, of course, monopolising March 11th, taking control of public spaces that day, pushing all the alternative voices to the shade, and normalising ethno-nationalist skinhead demonstrations as a true expression of patriotism. When an MP patronises over a demonstration with skinheads and ethno-nationalist slogans, while pro-democratic groups cannot get a permission to demonstrate at all (in 2009, they didn't get a premission to organise a demonstration of more than 9 people), soon enough moderates and left-wingers will feel anything but at home in the city on this important day. In the struggle over public space, the municipal government clearly prioritises one lifestyle over others.

So how about the former cemetery? I think with the two demonstrations as points of comparison, I don't even have to bother to spell H-Y-P-O-C-R-I-S-Y...

For comparison: far-right demonstration in Budapest.

Urban space and politics, not sex

As some of you know, Lithuania is waiting (or not) for its first LGBT parade/demo on the 8th of May. It was, as expected, a very controversial issue, yet the way it will go will provide an important test for Lithuanian democracy.

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Alternative Casimir market in Vilnius

Tired of the pseudo-folk traditional Casimir market (which, despite all criticism, does have good stuff in it, I must say)? Try the new one. Sorry, the announcement is in Lithuanian, but I will translate the basic info.

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Best new places in Vilnius by Pravda

The story is in Lithuanian, but it's worth taking a look at the photos and translating where to find them. I think all of them sound interesting.

The source is Pravda, the free monthly Lithuanian hipster's bible. It started as an amateur cultural zine several years ago. First it had English summaries of every article. Gradually, we saw it become increasingly professional, commercial, and, sorry to say, snobbish. It also uncritically supported some shady elite projects, such as the idea to establish a subsidiary of the Guggenheim museum in Vilnius, which has become a metaphor for corruption in cultural policy. The magazine lost another part of its credibility in my eyes when it published it first political advertisement during the last electoral campaign. It promoted Gintaras Steponavicius - he was standing in the middle of a colourful page, skilfully designed to please hipster eyes.

However, Pravda is an unparallelled source of "what, when and where?", and their creative columns are a good source to get to know Vilnius (it never tried to effectively embrace other cities, yet it always announces what cultural events are happening there). For example, their humorous series of stereotypical characters (drawn and described in a funny way, but without offence, so that everyone can relate them to at least a few people) was a delight; their descriptions of marginal streets of Vilnius are inspiring, and I often search out the music they recommend. Their website offers weekly free MP3 packages promoting new indie bands - something I always take advantage of. 

It would be interesting to hear more opinions about Pravda. Meanwhile, check their gallery of Chinese fake goods - it made my day :D

Kaunas in winter

Each time I go back to my hometown Kaunas from abroad, I'm warned that I'll find it more dead than ever. Yet with these expectations, I always find it surprisingly alive and bustling. This time, caught in the middle of an exceptionally cold winter, locals have set out to enjoy a windless weekend out. Meanwhile, the Vytautas Magnus University proclaims Kaunas to be the "academic capital of Lithuania".

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90s in Lithuania

My friend M. wrote on his facebook that it's not his 30th birthday that makes him feel old, but rather knowing that Freddie Mercury died 18 years ago. It made me think about my memories of that time, when I was still at primary school, with a childish awareness that one of my childhood heroes died from a terrible disease called AIDS. When one teacher, following some comment of mine about Mercury, said that he had an 'unusual lifestyle', 'no family and many women' (implying, perhaps, that he's not a suitable role model), I wasn't able to make a connection between the 'lifestyle' and the disease.

These memories made me think about 90s in Lithuania, full of all these foreign influences, local sensitivities and anxious uncertainty, and in this post I want to share the things I remember.

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Vilnius: final sale!!!

Damn it, why do I only hear bad news about Vilnius when I'm abroad? It's difficult, believe me, to refrain from 'uncivilised' vocabulary, as when news of ever crazier actions of the government leave me shocked. See, I don't see the development of these stories. This time the municipality, overloaded with debts, decided to sell most of the 'infrastructural' companies it owns. Yes, this will give it more money, which will probably disappear into the black holes of corruption, and private owners will make benefit of their monopolist position in transportation, electricity, and central heating. This is freaking sick!

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Quote of the month

"When I see that after this [the govt's decision to decrease salaries in public schools by 5%, while other employees of the public sector got a 10% decrease] a part of the labour unions come and protest, I start doubting whether we did the right thing by applying a different [salary] reduction rate to some groups, despite the fact that some ministers encouraged applying a unified rate for all" - that's what the PM said as teachers' unions were protesting against the so-called National Agreement (= the govt, representatives of big business, representatives of the bureaucracy from mock unions).

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Tips for travelling in Vilnius

So I left Vilnius again. I live in Tel Aviv now. I'm sure I'll have a lot to share on this blog. But for some reason an idea came to my mind that upon leaving I could give some tips for those who are moving or travelling to Vilnius.

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Shootings and solidarity: a very problematic case (updated)

Two murders shocked my hometown Kaunas. When I heard that a judge was murdered, I thought, 'Mafia shootouts - here they go again'... We have more or less forgotten about them since the 90s. However, the case proved to be quite different. It provokes thousands of comments on news portals every day now.

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Politics or health indeed?

Another big news for the crisis-struck Lithuanian economy. Russia announced that it will not allow importing milk products from Lithuania. Losing this huge market is a disaster for this big business in Lithuania. The country mainly exports agricultural products. Of course, this news is not analysed in any other way than as an example of certain imperialism. Is it the full story though?

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Soviet spirit comes back to its square in Vilnius

As some of you know, a monument to Vincas Kudirka, the author of the Lithuanian anthem, was recently unveiled in the Municipality Square. Apparently, there was previously a statue of some soviet general. Some people have already noticed that the statue rigorously follows the 'best' characteristics of soviet ideological sculpture.

The author I referred to above claims that the statue reminds him of young Lenin. He ends his opinion piece by encouraging to stop defacing Vilnius and kick the spirit of Lenin away from the city.

I don't find anything outrageous about the statue :) The way the square is designed now is absolutely surreal and surpasses all parodies. Precisely the things which are created in order to be dead-serious can cross the limits of absurd in such a way as to make them pleasurable. The piece of stone behind Mr. Kudirka has the lyrics of the Lithuanian anthem and emits green light when it's dark.The monument, which was built to cater for national(ist?) sentiments, now embodies the pathetic efforts of Lithuania to reproduce itself as a patriotic (the writer) yet ultra modern (the green glow a la 'Matrix') and, no no, not-post-soviet-at-all country.

Three topics: undeclared work, voting in Afghanistan, blog about Vilnius

Very briefly, because, unfortunately, I don't have much time. I discovered this rather old, pre-crisis statistical publication by Eurostat on undeclared work in the EU. These figures must have grown due to the crisis, but they are quite challenging in themselves, as such countries like Sweden or Belgium rank very high. People tend to buy CDs, DVDs, computers, clothes, furniture and other goods, get house cleaning or care for children or the elderly services on the black market. Many of the buyers are managers, other white collar employees or the self-employed. Most people purchase black market goods or services due to lower price and faster service. Remember my post about unofficial payments in a restaurant?

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As the process of counting the ballots proceeds in Afghanistan, there is evidence of fake polling stations - the scale of fraud is unimaginable. A wonderful democracy they have installed in this war-torn country, no?

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I found a new blog a bit similar to mine: eziukasvilniuje.blogas.lt

British embassy in Lithuanian politics

Should one country sponsor an institution with a political agenda and government links in another country?

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School uniforms - let's discuss

Several kids were reported as not being allowed into schools without uniforms, although the minister of education recently invited school authorities not to be too strict.

School uniforms are supposed to conceal class differences and equalise kids, but during the crisis they may become quite unaffordable for many families. Kids grow fast, and it's difficult to adjust the uniform. It's usually possible to buy a second-hand one, but it's usually worn off and not so pleasant to wear.

What do you think, should schools insist on uniforms?

Senses of Vilnius - where?

As I'm sitting at the first Coffee Inn and blogging, I see a big add in front of me, vaguely inviting people to "sense - see, hear, smell, taste, touch Vilnius" - a hint about a new event from the Capital of Culture repertoire. This particular space is marked with an ear - people will soon be able to hear something, I don't know what. What can one hear in that space at the moment? Chatting of teenagers, mumbling of a homeless man harassing people in search for a compassionate soul to give him some money, before he gets kicked away by a guard from a nearby cafeteria. This "sense" project, however, gives me some inspiration.

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The crisis advances

For the first time in several years, I got the bill for my lunch on an ordinary slip of paper, hand-written. Welcome back, shadow economy.

Conference about Scandinavia

Seems to be interesting: political, social and cultural analysis of the creation of the Scandinavian region. Nobody from Lithuania is presenting though.

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Ethics and etiquette

Delfi reports that a Member of the Parliament, Arminas Lydeka from the Liberals, has violated architectural heritage preservation laws. In a prestigious part of the old town, he decided to build additional flats to his property, which damaged the old building.

The Old Town of Vilnius is a UNESCO world heritage site. However, some of its inhabitants practically have impunity. This is not Lydeka's house, but a similar idea. You take an old house and mess it up by adding new flats.

Lydeka made a career as an expert in etiquette. He has published books, taught and consulted people on that matter. Etiquette does not lead to ethics, though.

New Left 95 conference on 22 August

Everyone who is in Vilnius that day should take a look. All but one presentations will be in Lithuanian, but I will be in charge of simultaneous translation in case anyone wants to hear them in English.

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