Lithuania

Old Vilnius anew

I miss the predictability of Tel Aviv weather as the skies of my native country vomit a chilly rainfall onto my head. Because of this, I'm about to skip the only festival which makes me shout, "Yeah, I do love being in Vilnius!" I mean, the Let It Be Night festival, when many cultural venues are open at night and many events are free. Many of them are inside, but you can't feel the greatness of this event without moving around the space, so alive with people, lights and joy. You can't have it all if you walk around cursing the ugliness of the weather, which is tropical except that it's cold. As you may predict, if your mood is already bad enough, or if you think you have much better things to do than read a bitter blog post, you can close it now.

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Lithuania OKs torture of suspect by Russian security forces?

20 years ago Lithuania declared its independence from the USSR, before anyone knew it will break apart very soon. In the eyes of the world, Lithuania's name stood for courage, as well as struggle for individual and collective rights against the omnipotent bureaucratic empire with ubiquitous security and intelligence systems. The last Soviet troops left the country in 1993. I watched them leave from a bridge above a railroad with my father and brother. A hand from a window of the last car waved a Soviet flag. "See, they want to tell us they'll be back," my father said then. Two decades later, KGB's inheritors are coming through the back door: a Lithuanian citizen, suspected of participating in organising a terrorist attack, was allegedly tortured by Russian officers.

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Akropolis wants the govt to pay for own miscalculations?

The notorious Maxima Group (or officially VP Group) strikes again. You already know that it secretly kept selling dishes proved to emit poisonous materials (this was discovered by my colleague Džina Donauskaitė), turned the former Central Station of Alytus into a slum, was supposed to become the key private investor in the new power plant to be built (in case of any disagreement, the govt would have deposited all its property except embassies abroad), and allegedly forced its employees to participate in an environmental action day. Not all the accusations may be as severe as they seemed in the beginning, but it is indeed very difficult to check them, and so far I have not received any information that would make me think otherwise. Anyway, here comes the latest news: Akropolis, the chain of huge shopping malls belonging to the VP Group (one of the malls was built in the centre of Kaunas under dubious circumstances, and is a classical example of urban mis-planning), is suing the state for the loss of money it invested into land it bought before the crisis. During the crisis, which hit Lithuania in 2008, real estate prices plummeted and many people and businesses experienced losses. The most severely affected were young people who took mortgage loans for their accommodation, as their salaries were reduced, yet interest remained high, and the option of selling the apartment to pay off the debt became not an option anymore.

There is no denying that the government is partly to blame for the severity of the crisis. The previous Social-Democratic government 'overslept' and totally mishandled it. The new Conservative-Liberal government introduced austerity measures that badly hit domestic consumption. However, the crisis is practically force majeur, and one should not demand taxpayers' money for one's own miscalculated investment. But of course big business always finds its way.

Update 17 June

The court has just ruled that the conglomerate won't have to pay the remaining amount to the state, because the market value of their purchase has decreased. Of course, nobody cares whose else property's market value decreased due to the crisis. The court explains that the Lithuanian state won't suffer too much, because it will benefit from the development of infrastructure around the mall. I wouldn't claim that infrastructure in that area was underdeveloped. It is close to a very popular park, which also has a concert hall inside, and almost next to the centre. Why would they build a shopping mall there in the first place?

The first Gay Pride: what about this metaphorical glass?

The most loyal readers of my blog must have been wondering, why was I silent about the first demonstration for the rights of homosexuals, bisexuals and transgender people in Lithuania. In fact it has nothing to do with the Baltic Pride itself, only with the end of the academic year. Well, here it is, I'll try to give you as much information as possible. The most important thing is, obviously, the fact that after so many obstacles the Baltic Pride happened, and, although I did not see it with my own eyes, it seems to have been a beautiful one.

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Maxima: environmentally responsible sweatshop or falsely accused?

A famous Lithuanian journalist Arturas Racas reposted a letter he received from the Union of Wage Labourers about a violation committed by the biggest Lithuanian supermarket chain, Maxima. The chain actively took part in the nation-wide day for environmental event, "Darom 2010" (LT: Let's do 2010). The event encouraged people to get together and clean up their environment. Apparently, some of those ad hoc environmental activists even discovered the body of Drasius Kedys, who is a hero for some and a criminal for others after shooting two persons who allegedly brought young children, including his daughter, to pedophiles. Anyway, I don't have any knowledge about this case, so let's leave it for now. Maxima supplied rubbish bags and other materials for volunteers and promised to get its staff actively involved in the event. The Union claims that employees of Maxima were forced to take part.

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Two news: LGBT Pride demonstration; bankruptcy of luxury mall

The municipality of Vilnius finally announced where the first ever demonstration for the rights of homosexuals (and others) will take place. This is not the exact route, but it connects the starting and the finishing point of the march, and shows you which part of the city is reserved for demonstrations from now on... The Swedish Minister for EU affairs announced she will attend. Will you?

Second news: after three years, a luxury shopping mall on Gedimino ave. 9, right next to the Government building and a block away from the Cathedral, is facing uncertain destiny. The company which owns it is bankrupt, and the business is now transferred to the chief creditor - a Scandinavian-owned bank. The mall is not closed [yet], but the fact shows how deep the crisis is. Even comparatively rich inhabitants of Vilnius are saving.

Is Fascism Eastern?

As I have written previously (although, again, without witnessing), the Restoration of Independence Day in Vilnius was scarred by an already traditional neo-nationalist demonstration. After last year's silence, the demonstrators, with a member of the Parliament on their side, oscillated back to noisy calls for a mono-ethnic state. As before, they crafted a test of democracy especially on the local level. They received a permission to take control of the public space in Vilnius, which some other demonstrators find difficulty in attaining. Close in time and space, a permission for Waffen-SS veterans to march was granted in Riga. Although the demonstration did not receive much attention, there are several important responses, which, unfortunately, I find quite disturbing.

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3D Vilnius

I have already told you about the urban blog Eziukas Vilniuje. It does not get updated that often, but today I found something really interesting. Here is a link to a website with panoramic 3D images of various places in Vilnius. Enjoy!

More fights over Vilnius space: nationalists are kosher?

As I wrote earlier, the municipality of Vilnius did not allow the Baltic Pride demonstration (against the discrimination and stereotyping of homosexuals), planned in May, to take place in the new premises where most protests will be pushed to, presumably because it is the territory of an ancient Jewish cemetery. However, Delfi writes that the municipality allowed the 'patriotic' march, which happens already the third time on the Independence Day, without any discussion with the Department of Cultural Heritage. One thing that may explain a part of it is the fact that it was a parliament member, Kazimieras Uoka from the Conservative-Christian Democratic faction, who asked the municipality for the permission to organise the march and assumed responsibility for it.

In 2008, LIthuanians and foreigners were in shock to see how the 'patriotic' march, at the time on Gedimino ave., turned into a neo-nazi demonstration, with anti-Russian and anti-Semitic slogans. The police filmed the participants, but was reluctant to arrest them in the beginning. The next year, in 2009, the website patriotai.lt (a discussion forum popular among the far right and some 'patriotic' moderates) asked the participants of the march for "no sympathy to the ideologies of communism and nazism" and "no hate incitement in posters, slogans and flags". The right-wing demonstration went peacefully and without incitement of hate, yet the parallel anti-nationalist demonstration "the funeral of democracy" was met with rather aggressive resistance, and quite soon patriotai.lt invited its participants to identify the participants of that demonstration. In a few days, one of the participants of the anti-nationalist demonstration was beaten up.

This year (it's the third year that I'm not in the country on the Independence Day, so I have to rely on testimonies) there was no hate incitement, yet the participants shouted (see video), "Lithuania for Lithuanians!" Mr. Uoka only found this slogan 'monotonous', while the Human Rights Monitoring Istitute expressed concern over the agitation for a mono-ethnic state. Personally, I think that the 'patriotic' march is an obvious attempt to monopolise the term 'patriot' and 'patriotism', and 'steal' the Independence Day from the non-right-wing population. Unlike many other national holidays (the crowning of King Mindaugas, the Zalgiris battle, and even the first Independence Day), this day is a celebration of the modern Lithuanian democracy and resistance to the oppressive Soviet regime, so it is also important for moderates and left-wing people. However, the increasingly radical right would prefer to see these people as not belonging neither to Lithuania nor to this day. The way to achieve it is, of course, monopolising March 11th, taking control of public spaces that day, pushing all the alternative voices to the shade, and normalising ethno-nationalist skinhead demonstrations as a true expression of patriotism. When an MP patronises over a demonstration with skinheads and ethno-nationalist slogans, while pro-democratic groups cannot get a permission to demonstrate at all (in 2009, they didn't get a premission to organise a demonstration of more than 9 people), soon enough moderates and left-wingers will feel anything but at home in the city on this important day. In the struggle over public space, the municipal government clearly prioritises one lifestyle over others.

So how about the former cemetery? I think with the two demonstrations as points of comparison, I don't even have to bother to spell H-Y-P-O-C-R-I-S-Y...

For comparison: far-right demonstration in Budapest.

Urban space and politics, not sex

As some of you know, Lithuania is waiting (or not) for its first LGBT parade/demo on the 8th of May. It was, as expected, a very controversial issue, yet the way it will go will provide an important test for Lithuanian democracy.

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Alternative Casimir market in Vilnius

Tired of the pseudo-folk traditional Casimir market (which, despite all criticism, does have good stuff in it, I must say)? Try the new one. Sorry, the announcement is in Lithuanian, but I will translate the basic info.

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Best new places in Vilnius by Pravda

The story is in Lithuanian, but it's worth taking a look at the photos and translating where to find them. I think all of them sound interesting.

The source is Pravda, the free monthly Lithuanian hipster's bible. It started as an amateur cultural zine several years ago. First it had English summaries of every article. Gradually, we saw it become increasingly professional, commercial, and, sorry to say, snobbish. It also uncritically supported some shady elite projects, such as the idea to establish a subsidiary of the Guggenheim museum in Vilnius, which has become a metaphor for corruption in cultural policy. The magazine lost another part of its credibility in my eyes when it published it first political advertisement during the last electoral campaign. It promoted Gintaras Steponavicius - he was standing in the middle of a colourful page, skilfully designed to please hipster eyes.

However, Pravda is an unparallelled source of "what, when and where?", and their creative columns are a good source to get to know Vilnius (it never tried to effectively embrace other cities, yet it always announces what cultural events are happening there). For example, their humorous series of stereotypical characters (drawn and described in a funny way, but without offence, so that everyone can relate them to at least a few people) was a delight; their descriptions of marginal streets of Vilnius are inspiring, and I often search out the music they recommend. Their website offers weekly free MP3 packages promoting new indie bands - something I always take advantage of. 

It would be interesting to hear more opinions about Pravda. Meanwhile, check their gallery of Chinese fake goods - it made my day :D

Kaunas in winter

Each time I go back to my hometown Kaunas from abroad, I'm warned that I'll find it more dead than ever. Yet with these expectations, I always find it surprisingly alive and bustling. This time, caught in the middle of an exceptionally cold winter, locals have set out to enjoy a windless weekend out. Meanwhile, the Vytautas Magnus University proclaims Kaunas to be the "academic capital of Lithuania".

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90s in Lithuania

My friend M. wrote on his facebook that it's not his 30th birthday that makes him feel old, but rather knowing that Freddie Mercury died 18 years ago. It made me think about my memories of that time, when I was still at primary school, with a childish awareness that one of my childhood heroes died from a terrible disease called AIDS. When one teacher, following some comment of mine about Mercury, said that he had an 'unusual lifestyle', 'no family and many women' (implying, perhaps, that he's not a suitable role model), I wasn't able to make a connection between the 'lifestyle' and the disease.

These memories made me think about 90s in Lithuania, full of all these foreign influences, local sensitivities and anxious uncertainty, and in this post I want to share the things I remember.

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Vilnius: final sale!!!

Damn it, why do I only hear bad news about Vilnius when I'm abroad? It's difficult, believe me, to refrain from 'uncivilised' vocabulary, as when news of ever crazier actions of the government leave me shocked. See, I don't see the development of these stories. This time the municipality, overloaded with debts, decided to sell most of the 'infrastructural' companies it owns. Yes, this will give it more money, which will probably disappear into the black holes of corruption, and private owners will make benefit of their monopolist position in transportation, electricity, and central heating. This is freaking sick!

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Quote of the month

"When I see that after this [the govt's decision to decrease salaries in public schools by 5%, while other employees of the public sector got a 10% decrease] a part of the labour unions come and protest, I start doubting whether we did the right thing by applying a different [salary] reduction rate to some groups, despite the fact that some ministers encouraged applying a unified rate for all" - that's what the PM said as teachers' unions were protesting against the so-called National Agreement (= the govt, representatives of big business, representatives of the bureaucracy from mock unions).

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Tips for travelling in Vilnius

So I left Vilnius again. I live in Tel Aviv now. I'm sure I'll have a lot to share on this blog. But for some reason an idea came to my mind that upon leaving I could give some tips for those who are moving or travelling to Vilnius.

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Shootings and solidarity: a very problematic case (updated)

Two murders shocked my hometown Kaunas. When I heard that a judge was murdered, I thought, 'Mafia shootouts - here they go again'... We have more or less forgotten about them since the 90s. However, the case proved to be quite different. It provokes thousands of comments on news portals every day now.

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Politics or health indeed?

Another big news for the crisis-struck Lithuanian economy. Russia announced that it will not allow importing milk products from Lithuania. Losing this huge market is a disaster for this big business in Lithuania. The country mainly exports agricultural products. Of course, this news is not analysed in any other way than as an example of certain imperialism. Is it the full story though?

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Soviet spirit comes back to its square in Vilnius

As some of you know, a monument to Vincas Kudirka, the author of the Lithuanian anthem, was recently unveiled in the Municipality Square. Apparently, there was previously a statue of some soviet general. Some people have already noticed that the statue rigorously follows the 'best' characteristics of soviet ideological sculpture.

The author I referred to above claims that the statue reminds him of young Lenin. He ends his opinion piece by encouraging to stop defacing Vilnius and kick the spirit of Lenin away from the city.

I don't find anything outrageous about the statue :) The way the square is designed now is absolutely surreal and surpasses all parodies. Precisely the things which are created in order to be dead-serious can cross the limits of absurd in such a way as to make them pleasurable. The piece of stone behind Mr. Kudirka has the lyrics of the Lithuanian anthem and emits green light when it's dark.The monument, which was built to cater for national(ist?) sentiments, now embodies the pathetic efforts of Lithuania to reproduce itself as a patriotic (the writer) yet ultra modern (the green glow a la 'Matrix') and, no no, not-post-soviet-at-all country.

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