tokio

Public and private mixture in Roppongi

Yesterday I spent a few hours in a park near Tokyo Midtown - a shopping and office complex in Roppongi. Me and my friend noticed that there are guards who sometimes walk around. Otherwise it was like every other park. I had been there before, during the Roppongi Art Night events, when the park was filled with balloons with light. People are walking their dogs, having lunch or just sitting on the grass. Yet what surprised me is that, while discussing some things about the park, my friend mentioned its "owners". "What, is it private???" I exclaimed, surprised. Apparently so. Owners of the shopping mall want to offer a nice view for enterprises who rent offices there, so they maintain the park, which is open to the public - fortunately, without any fees. "Local governments could never afford such expensive land in the middle of Tokyo", my friend explained.

I had to admit that my cultural bias would have otherwise not allowed such a thought to cross my mind. "Park" and "private" simply wouldn't connect :) In countries I have lived in before Japan, it's the businesses that would have to buy land from the government - parks are automatically public. So it's totally different logic. But yeah, makes sense I guess - once upon a time people owned that land, it became expensive, and now in order to own it local governments need to buy it.

Well, as long as it increases the number of parks in Tokyo, I'll learn the new concept of private park and use it :) I just hope that there will always be enough social pressure for the owners to keep the parks.

It takes ten minutes to become a bar hostess in Tokyo

Yesterday I did a rather exciting journalistic experiment. Without many plans on my mind, I went to Kinshicho, an area known for its bars and clubs with foreign hostesses and a lot of foreigners in general. I visited this area once with B., as recommended by Y. That time we saw some Russian, Romanian and Filipino bars, went into one, but it was probably too early, so no hostesses and no clients were around. Yesterday I decided to revisit Kinshicho.

I was wearing a modest Indian-style dress and a spring coat, no make-up. Yet my (Eastern) European appearance and a look of a child who's lost was probably convincing enough. I was approached by four Bangladeshis in different parts of Kinshicho, asking me if I'm looking for a job. At first, feeling very insecure in general, I kept repeating "daijoubu" ("it's OK"). I was also approached by two Japanese, asking if I'm looking for something. In the end my journalistic curiosity won over the safety instinct, and I stopped to chat with two Bangladeshi guys. They asked me if I speak Japanese and where I come from. Then they asked again if I'm looking for a job. I decided to try: "Well, yeah, I'm new to Japan, and I'd like to stay, but... I really don't know..." They said that the club "Silver fox" recruits hostesses from Lithuania and Russia and "is always looking for more". In addition, they called someone and asked me to come with them. With my heart somewhere in my heels, I followed them to a bar on the 8th floor of one typical building. The Bangladeshis told me to sit down and went to look for Mama-san. Left alone, I could observe the bar. There were four Asian and two Slavic-looking hostesses. The latter were both blond, one was wearing a dress with much of breasts showing. They had two clients, one around 55 and another around 60, and were talking to them in simple Japanese. I could hear that they were explaining that of all alcoholic beverages they liked beer best because it's "nomiyasui" (easy to drink). Finally the Bangladeshis returned, bringing me a glass of juice (which I of course didn't drink). They asked me if I am going to get married in order to get a work permit. I said I don't know, I could. "All women in this bar are married," they said. Then they told me to bring a friend who is fluent in Japanese next time. One of the Bangladeshis apparently has a Lithuanian wife, so he tried to call her and have her explain things to me, but she wasn't answering.

However, that wasn't the end yet. One of the Bangladeshis invited me to come with him again. In the elevator he told me that visa will come later, "first you need a job". He said he called another Mama-san and said that I am from Lithuania, "young and beautiful", and need a job. He took me to another building with a shabby staircase and stinky elevator. Yet a red carped on the 6th floor showed that luxury and enjoyment hides in a very simple shell. It was easy to see that the bar is sort of hiding - no suprise if they really employ women with tourist visas. The Mama-san looked kind and caring, yet the hostesses, all sitting without clients and all Asian, threw suspicious and unwelcoming looks at me. Mama-san explained me that I should get married and apply for a work permit, yet so far it's OK - I can start working immediately. However, she then asked me if I have "yofuku" (jp. for Western clothing). I showed what dress I was wearing, and she frowned. She also checked my shoes and told me to bring high heels next time. Using these remarks as an opportunity to get out of there, I told her that I'll call her and next time I'll come properly dressed. Smiling, the Mama-san saw me off and said "spasibo" ("thank you" in Russian) as I went into the elevator. I felt soooo relieved when I got out of the building. Yet as I was waiting at a crossing, another Bangladeshi (I know their nationality because I asked them all) asked if I need a job. A young Japanese standing nearby told him that I am already booked, but there are "viza no mondai" (visa problems). The Bangladeshi congratulated me - "it's a very good club", he said.

Believe me, I'm really, really curious to research this side of Tokyo life. But I know about the involvement of mafia in this business, and it's just too scary for me to do it alone.

For those who can't get enough of tofu

My friend Y. discovered a really cool restaurant in Shibuya. It's called "Sora no niwa" (here's one review with a map) and is about 10 min walk from Shibuya station. It specialises in tofu, and thus is a paradise for vegetarians and vegans, or those who aren't yet convinced that the seemingly tasteless Japanese invention can turn into a broad variety of unforgettably delicious miracles, or anyone. Tofu, made from soybeans, is really low in fat, so those with restricted diet would also rejoice at the possibility to fill their stomach without the feeling of guilt. We had some creatively made tofu snacks, tofu soup, tofu which gets cooked right on the table, tofu tempura, tofu with rice, tofu tiramisu and tofu cocktail... Tofu-avocado and tofu-cheese snacks were heavenly! Also, the atmosphere is really pleasant. Good choice in all aspects! Maybe a bit expensive though.

Outdoor activities in Tokyo

Yesterday we had a chance to experience some outdoor life, because it was a sunny Sunday. We started our trip from Meiji shrine in Harajuku. The area surrounding the shrine had probably the highest concentration of foreigners that I've seen in Tokyo this time (I've in Japan before, in 2004). Many people, alone, in couples or with their children, went there to get some fresh air. And, of course, there were many tourists, some in peculiar outfits - the kind of type which probably loves anime and falls in love with Japan because of that :) The park surrounding the shrine is really big.

We managed to spot a wedding, which was again filmed by hordes of tourists, craving for exotic sights. Yet the shrine, interestingly enough, was surrounded by the calm and chilliness of antiquity. Even though tourists would pass by one after another, it didn't change the atmosphere much.

After visiting the shrine we proceeded to another side of Harajuku, where we saw some of the famous Harajuku kids, this time offering a free hug, and a fun performance by the Tokyo Rockabilly club. It was really interesting to see it, yet difficult to describe.

The dessert for the day was a jazz band playing on one of the streets in Shibuya.

Akihabara, were people look for ways to escape their loneliness

The further we go, the more interesting it gets. Akihabara offers a world with everything drawn by a skillful hand: sadomasochistic scenes, European counts and Japanese princes, Lolita exploitation, gay porn for women, and tons of ways of peeping into the secret office life. It's all out there, just a few steps from the main street.

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