Vilnius

3D Vilnius

I have already told you about the urban blog Eziukas Vilniuje. It does not get updated that often, but today I found something really interesting. Here is a link to a website with panoramic 3D images of various places in Vilnius. Enjoy!

More fights over Vilnius space: nationalists are kosher?

As I wrote earlier, the municipality of Vilnius did not allow the Baltic Pride demonstration (against the discrimination and stereotyping of homosexuals), planned in May, to take place in the new premises where most protests will be pushed to, presumably because it is the territory of an ancient Jewish cemetery. However, Delfi writes that the municipality allowed the 'patriotic' march, which happens already the third time on the Independence Day, without any discussion with the Department of Cultural Heritage. One thing that may explain a part of it is the fact that it was a parliament member, Kazimieras Uoka from the Conservative-Christian Democratic faction, who asked the municipality for the permission to organise the march and assumed responsibility for it.

In 2008, LIthuanians and foreigners were in shock to see how the 'patriotic' march, at the time on Gedimino ave., turned into a neo-nazi demonstration, with anti-Russian and anti-Semitic slogans. The police filmed the participants, but was reluctant to arrest them in the beginning. The next year, in 2009, the website patriotai.lt (a discussion forum popular among the far right and some 'patriotic' moderates) asked the participants of the march for "no sympathy to the ideologies of communism and nazism" and "no hate incitement in posters, slogans and flags". The right-wing demonstration went peacefully and without incitement of hate, yet the parallel anti-nationalist demonstration "the funeral of democracy" was met with rather aggressive resistance, and quite soon patriotai.lt invited its participants to identify the participants of that demonstration. In a few days, one of the participants of the anti-nationalist demonstration was beaten up.

This year (it's the third year that I'm not in the country on the Independence Day, so I have to rely on testimonies) there was no hate incitement, yet the participants shouted (see video), "Lithuania for Lithuanians!" Mr. Uoka only found this slogan 'monotonous', while the Human Rights Monitoring Istitute expressed concern over the agitation for a mono-ethnic state. Personally, I think that the 'patriotic' march is an obvious attempt to monopolise the term 'patriot' and 'patriotism', and 'steal' the Independence Day from the non-right-wing population. Unlike many other national holidays (the crowning of King Mindaugas, the Zalgiris battle, and even the first Independence Day), this day is a celebration of the modern Lithuanian democracy and resistance to the oppressive Soviet regime, so it is also important for moderates and left-wing people. However, the increasingly radical right would prefer to see these people as not belonging neither to Lithuania nor to this day. The way to achieve it is, of course, monopolising March 11th, taking control of public spaces that day, pushing all the alternative voices to the shade, and normalising ethno-nationalist skinhead demonstrations as a true expression of patriotism. When an MP patronises over a demonstration with skinheads and ethno-nationalist slogans, while pro-democratic groups cannot get a permission to demonstrate at all (in 2009, they didn't get a premission to organise a demonstration of more than 9 people), soon enough moderates and left-wingers will feel anything but at home in the city on this important day. In the struggle over public space, the municipal government clearly prioritises one lifestyle over others.

So how about the former cemetery? I think with the two demonstrations as points of comparison, I don't even have to bother to spell H-Y-P-O-C-R-I-S-Y...

For comparison: far-right demonstration in Budapest.

Alternative Casimir market in Vilnius

Tired of the pseudo-folk traditional Casimir market (which, despite all criticism, does have good stuff in it, I must say)? Try the new one. Sorry, the announcement is in Lithuanian, but I will translate the basic info.

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Vilnius: final sale!!!

Damn it, why do I only hear bad news about Vilnius when I'm abroad? It's difficult, believe me, to refrain from 'uncivilised' vocabulary, as when news of ever crazier actions of the government leave me shocked. See, I don't see the development of these stories. This time the municipality, overloaded with debts, decided to sell most of the 'infrastructural' companies it owns. Yes, this will give it more money, which will probably disappear into the black holes of corruption, and private owners will make benefit of their monopolist position in transportation, electricity, and central heating. This is freaking sick!

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Tips for travelling in Vilnius

So I left Vilnius again. I live in Tel Aviv now. I'm sure I'll have a lot to share on this blog. But for some reason an idea came to my mind that upon leaving I could give some tips for those who are moving or travelling to Vilnius.

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Soviet spirit comes back to its square in Vilnius

As some of you know, a monument to Vincas Kudirka, the author of the Lithuanian anthem, was recently unveiled in the Municipality Square. Apparently, there was previously a statue of some soviet general. Some people have already noticed that the statue rigorously follows the 'best' characteristics of soviet ideological sculpture.

The author I referred to above claims that the statue reminds him of young Lenin. He ends his opinion piece by encouraging to stop defacing Vilnius and kick the spirit of Lenin away from the city.

I don't find anything outrageous about the statue :) The way the square is designed now is absolutely surreal and surpasses all parodies. Precisely the things which are created in order to be dead-serious can cross the limits of absurd in such a way as to make them pleasurable. The piece of stone behind Mr. Kudirka has the lyrics of the Lithuanian anthem and emits green light when it's dark.The monument, which was built to cater for national(ist?) sentiments, now embodies the pathetic efforts of Lithuania to reproduce itself as a patriotic (the writer) yet ultra modern (the green glow a la 'Matrix') and, no no, not-post-soviet-at-all country.

Senses of Vilnius - where?

As I'm sitting at the first Coffee Inn and blogging, I see a big add in front of me, vaguely inviting people to "sense - see, hear, smell, taste, touch Vilnius" - a hint about a new event from the Capital of Culture repertoire. This particular space is marked with an ear - people will soon be able to hear something, I don't know what. What can one hear in that space at the moment? Chatting of teenagers, mumbling of a homeless man harassing people in search for a compassionate soul to give him some money, before he gets kicked away by a guard from a nearby cafeteria. This "sense" project, however, gives me some inspiration.

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New Left 95 conference on 22 August

Everyone who is in Vilnius that day should take a look. All but one presentations will be in Lithuanian, but I will be in charge of simultaneous translation in case anyone wants to hear them in English.

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Photos of Vilnius

When several CafeBabel journalists visited Vilnius earlier this summer, I had a chance to meet them and give them some tips. I was very curious about what they saw and experienced, because, due to rather strict working hours, I couldn't accompany them in their trips. Today I got this link to some beautiful photos from that trip by a photojournalist Jordi Cohen: http://www.cafebabel.com/spa/images/129/48-hours-vilnius-eu-capital-of-culture-tradition/

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Several urban topics

I'm back from Budapest, where I attended an amazing sociology conference at my former faculty. The speakers were mostly PhD students and young scientists, but there were several established ones, too. The topic was inequality and difference - their various aspects, starting from government and EU policies and ending with geographic spaces. It was nice to revisit Budapest after a year and meet old friends, too.

Back in Lithuania, there are some workshops for young people (aged 13-18) on film-making about the city. Can't wait to see what they manage to produce. The topics are Baroque, famous people from ethnic minorities and the influence of avantgarde art on urban development.

On the 19th this month, a friend of mine and his gang are having a fire show at 10.30 pm at the City hall square.

The Let There Be Night festival is from the 20th to the 21st. Here's its English programme and Lithuanian maps. All events free of charge.

Tomorrow, the Skalvija cinema is collecting recyclable garbage and giving free tickets to a seemingly good Estonian film "Class" for that. Can't decide whether I should go or not - it's at 5, while I work until 6.

A foreigner experiences racism in Vilnius

In the popular news portal Delfi, a young Spanish lady is telling her experiences in Vilnius, where she was often stared at or received offensive comments from strangers for supposedly looking "dark", "Indian" or "Arab". Once she was greeted with "Heil Hitler". She was also disappointed that people at ticket offices were totally unable to speak English and simply ignored her, and that traffic controllers refused to acknowledge her right to a discount.

She's surprised about people overreacting to her being "dark", as she has noticed many ladies with artificial suntan, who look more Southern in her opinion.

Nonetheless, she says she likes Lithuania, especially the easy access to unspoiled nature here, and that she will miss the good friends she has made.

Opinion on the river banks in Vilnius; EP election

I read an opinion about the river banks in Vilnius - to some extent it I agree with it. The way the river is integrated into the city life in Vilnius is rather miserable and can never compare to Budapest, Ljubljana and many other cities. Some nice exceptions are near the White (Baltasis) bridge, where people can sit and chat. Also, KultFlux seemed promising, although I think it failed the expectations. And, of course, Užupis, where the river Vilnelė attracts many people to sit by it and many artists to accept the challenge of the river and create their works in such a way as to make them suitable for the use near the river or in it (I should finally upload some photos to this blog). All of this the author "forgets" to mention...

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Lazdynai bridge is falling down

Some days ago it was announced that the Lazdynai bridge is falling down. The first association it evokes in those who live in Lazdynai is, however, not the famous nursery rhyme, but, "oh no, that means traffic jams in Lazdynai again..."

As a half of the road was closed because of the reparations of the bridge, I walked three stops one day just to avoid being stewed in a trolleybus for half an hour or waiting in vain at the bus stop. I walked together with other people who shared the same destiny, as the traffic jam, like a fat slimy worm, was writhing beside us. It could have been a nice walk past a nice green valley and blossoming chestnut trees. Yet the traffic jam was emitting sticky smog, which soon covered our hair and could be slightly felt on the skin. There must have been alternative paths, which would have enabled us to avoid the road, but we didn't know them. The greenery of the valley looked uninterrupted by anything suitable for those who walk in office shoes.

I'm really determined now to ask anyone I meet who knows anything about Lazdynai to help me find pedestrian or bicycle paths which could lead from Lazdynai to Lukiskes.

Places in Vilnius to be alone

I guess it happens to everyone that you sometimes have an hour or two before your next meeting, and have to spend this time somewhere. In summer it's really easy - just pick any square or bench near the street, or take a walk near the Neris river. But what to do in winter, when staying outside feels not only masochistic, but also gloomy and boring?

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Disrespect for the old town or better than nothing?

It seems that once again developers are following the "first build and then allow the society to discuss it" style.

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Prison in the centre of Vilnius

The fact that the prison is located in the centre of the capital is an abnormality. It's a manifestation of the punishing hand of the state for some, while for others it is a perceived security risk.

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Coffee inn - the phenomenon :)

Paradoxically, it provides a space to be comfortably alone or with friends, to read and update your blog, to spend time when you have too much and grab a take-away coffee when you have too little. An illusion of a public space so much needed in Vilnius.

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A tiny shop in Uzupis and its contested space

Decision which was taken to blame the director of the shop for safety problems. Not because it's an usual practice, but because she was a labour union activist.

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Riots in Vilnius (updated)

--- Beginning 16/01/09

As many of you might have heard, a series of riots has swept through Europe: in Greece, in Riga, in Sofia, and today in Vilnius as well. The riots started from a demonstration in front of the parliament. The demonstration was organised by the labour unions, which finally took action after years of hiding in the shadows and, unfortunately, doing nothing to protect workers from exploitation. The share of unionised employees is very low in Lithuania, and nobody takes the unions seriously. A few attempts to strengthen them were mocked and blocked by the big businesses (such as in the case of IKI supermarket chain, where the management established a fake 'alternative' union to divide and rule their workers, and fired key activists in the real bottom-up union).

The demonstration, which I attended but left a few minutes before the riots started to go back to work, started from the demands to stop the tax reform in Lithuania. The government has canceled all VAT exemptions (such as on medicine, books&publishing and other goods), which means that everything will become more expensive, and many small publishing houses and newspapers will go bankrupt. Also, there will be some changes for the allocation of retirement pensions, and many more people will have to pay for education.

Anyway, there are plenty of reasons to be frustrated. On the other hand, looking from the window of my office, I could see that the demonstration attracted youngsters who would join a right-wing demonstration with equal enthusiasm after coming here to support the unions, and break some windows again. Yet it's ridiculous to write off all expressions of political frustration to "a bunch of drunken aggressive individuals" (see my friend's blog entry in Lithuanian), which is very useful for de-politicisation of the issue. It is clear why people are frustrated, and it is sad that riots and other forms of destructive protest have become the only channel for citizens-to-government communication. Once the government is elected, it's deaf and blind to the needs of the citizens, and it hasn't introduced any "amortisation" mechanisms to make the reforms less painful.

Unfortunately, the official interpretation of the riots will only give a chance to further discredit the unions, even though riots can errupt in every public event, such as a basketball game.

I have to stop here and, as someone totally immersed in the petty-bourgeois mentality, forget the frustration of the working class and hurry to a theatre performance :)))

To be continued.

--- Update 19/01/09

As it could have been predicted, the government has announced that the riots result from the 'irresponsibility' in the planning of the protest and that no changes in policy will be made. Lots of articles have been written about how violence compromises the cause, and how it should be dealt with. An extreme version of the contempt towards the rioters, felt by some public intellectuals, can be found here. A comfortable explanation is, of course, 'possible involvement of certain states', very obviously meaning Russia. This is easy because in the other Baltic states the Russian-speaking minority is the most vulnerable to the fluctuations of the economy and, according to some reports, many people who participated in the riots in Riga were Russian-speaking (have in mind that every-second inhabitant of Riga is Russian-speaking). According to my above-mentioned blogger friend, the official message is: violent protest is a result of drunkenness and the activities of certain foreign agencies. Although there certainly is a possibility of such involvement, and alternative version - that there was NO involvement - is automatically rejected and not even considered. All of this serves to 'prove' that there can be no genuine Lithuanian protest and resistance.

Anyway, since this blog is mainly about city spaces, I feel like describing what I saw from my office window. I work in Gedimino 50, which is close to the parliament. I was in the demonstration during the lunch break, and came back a few minutes before the media announced that riots have broken out. A peaceful demonstration was simultaneously taking place near the government building (Gedimino 11). As you can see, the avenue connects the parliament and the government building. What we could see from the window was around 10-12 policemen with protective shields and helmets, pushing away a scattered crowd. Some people opened the windows to take photos, and tear gas used by the police were immediately felt in the office. The 'wall' formed by the officers was slowly advancing and pushing the rioters... down the avenue. The rioters, mainly young people of 16-18, but some quite older, were shouting at the policemen and throwing pieces of ice (I read they bought eggs in a nearby store and threw them at the parliament and one MP, and ex-mayor of Vilnius who has started most of the megalomanic and corrupt 'renovations' in the city, as he came to meet the protesters). One of these people had some leftover from  the new year's fireworks, so he threw it at the police, and one officer had to take some time to fix his helmet.

Now, the avenue is wide and open, yet it has many inner yards and side streets, so anyone who wanted, could have easily hidden and come back to the street again, behind the 'wall' of policemen. Some people probably did exactly that, but mainly photographers and not the rioters. The latter allowed themselves to be pushed down the street by the police. Which actually means that the police was pushing them towards the crowd participating in a peaceful demonstration near the government. Luckily for the police, there were not that many rioters to reach that location. Otherwise it could have ended in a similar disaster to what happened in Budapest in autumn 2006. The way the police and the rioters moved in the space was worth a film - a black 'wall' of policemen was slowly advancing down the street towards these youngsters, sporadically fighting back with pieces of ice and snow. It represented the power of the punitive structures, which was unbeatable, impersonal and... not always rational. The point was to push the rioters away from the parliament, but not to scatter and isolate them, but to parade them down the main street of Vilnius so that everybody could see. Gedimino ave. is very suitable for that: everyone in their balconies and offices could see how systematically the police advances, and how childish the protesters look now. The police was not running after them, nor was it isolating them. It went as a bulldozer, even though it meant that the violent crowd may eventually reach the government square. It clearly represented the main message of the government: 'you kids don't play games with us, because there's nothing you can do against us.'

Why Gedimino prospektas has no prospects

Before the financial crisis of 2008 hit Lithuania, the government was planning a study sort of "what's wrong with Gedimino Avenue". It has "discovered" that young people don't hang out there, and a perfectly centrally located area simply fails to attract people. Hordes of clerks rush to work, to have lunch, and home, and only several care to stay when their shift is over. Why?

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